Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with locals and tourists equally celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, Unesco designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of global cities and kindling hopes that it will showcase Lucknow's peerless food. With this designation, it becomes part of a international community of cities metropolises across over 100 countries committed to promoting "innovation as a key factor of city development that is sustainable".
The recognition "demonstrates its deep-rooted food heritage and vibrant food ecosystem," as noted by a representative from Unesco's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations internationally.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The recognition for this historic city comes as no surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many echo the view that it is "an honor long overdue".
With the UNESCO recognition, this adored, bustling, and vibrant city – the administrative center of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has perennially characterized its heart: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a constant dialogue from waking up until night in many homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are often judged by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th Century wealthy Muslim rulers – is noted for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were invented, evolved, and taken to exquisite levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were hubs of culinary innovations, merging Iranian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was in this era that Lucknow's most famous kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was created to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the container's cover tightly closed with a flour paste.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Besides the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also developed a collection of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not only about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local Baniya community's cuisine not only highlights fresh harvests but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known delights that are immensely popular with the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in kulhads, along with incredibly soft buns covered in freshly churned white butter.
To start the day, one can make their way to a no-frills joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was set up, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The vendor whisks the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the dew to give it its incredible light consistency.
On cold mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Many though say that their children do not want to take up the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy puts it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from modest street carts to lively restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is anticipated, will inspire more people worldwide to explore these tales and travel to the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
